Philly and Beyond …

America is not famous for its excellent rail network, due to cars and planes receiving most government funding. Despite this, we drag our three elephant cases through Penn Station and somehow board the train to Philadelphia. A ‘nice young man’ hauls the elephants into the luggage rack. When he disappears into another carriage, we have little choice but to develop superhuman strength to get the bloody things off the train.

An XL Uber (can’t get 3 elephants in a normal vehicle) delivers us to our apartment.

Oh no! Stairs!

I swear if I go on holiday for an entire year, I will never pack anything other than hand luggage!

Largely due to Julie’s methodology and her doing most of the work, we make it up to the apartment, which turns out to be lovely and well worth the effort.

After the pandemonium of New York, the tranquillity of Philly is bliss. We take a pleasant stroll along streets where you can see the tops of buildings, towards Independence Square, and call at the Liberty Bell Centre to take a look at this symbol of American Independence, freedom, and civil rights. The Liberty Bell was originally cast in London in 1752 and in 1846, an attempt to repair a hairline fracture, caused the famous zigzag crack and silenced the bell forever.

The next morning, we take an Uber to Doylestown in Pennsylvania, where Bill, Verlyn and Cathy will share the task of hosting the three of us.

Along the way, I am struck by the green open spaces and the individually designed, generous houses, surrounded by ample well-tended gardens.

During our stay here we three explore the delightful Doylestown – the county seat of Bucks County. Somehow, we unwittingly manage to get side-tracked and stay longer than anticipated in a very attractive beer garden. It was so hot, you see.

Verlyn takes us to the charming ‘Peddlar’s Village’. A storybook shopping centre with gorgeous 18^th century-style buildings, lovely gardens and cute shops that succeed in tempting all of us to purchase things we don’t need.

We take a tour of ‘Fonthill Castle,’ a concrete castle featuring unique architecture and a host of intricate tile works.

And of course, we absolutely must visit an authentic American Diner for breakfast to sample pancakes and maple syrup.

After three days, we bid our hospitable hosts farewell. Julie picks up the hire car and we head for Strasburg, a town in Shenandoah County, Virginia.

On the way, we call at Harpers Ferry, a stunningly beautiful spot located at the confluence of the Potamic and Shenandoah rivers. The town is famous for the abolitionist John Brown, who led a raid on Harpers Ferry armoury in a bid to start a slave liberation movement in the years preceding the American Civil War. But it’s not John Brown’s body a-moulding in his grave that we’re after. We are looking for Julie’s ancestor, Robert Harper, from whom the town takes its name. Julie finds the plot, respectfully presented in recognition of his importance, and takes a moment to reflect.

On to the Ramada hotel just outside Strasburg to battle with those bloody cases yet again!

However, Fay has booked three wine tours for the following day. Now you’re talking!

We are collected from our hotel and driven to the first vineyard. The idea is, we get dropped off, spend an hour or so drinking the wine, then our driver comes back and takes us the next, and the next. No actual tour, just rock up and sample the wine. My kind of tour!

The weather is glorious, the wine is glorious, the exquisite views from the vineyards are glorious. And yes, the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia are indeed, blue.

A perfect day!

Next stop: The English Inn Hotel, Charlottesville.

You can’t be in this neck of the woods without paying a visit to Thomas Jefferson’s plantation: Monticello. Well, you could, but not if you’re with my culture-vulture mates Fay and Julie!

In truth, it turns into a fascinating trip.

It’s fair to say that we are underwhelmed by the so called ‘grandeur’ of the Monticello Mansion. Nobody does grandeur quite like us Brits. The grounds, however, are beautiful and extensive and it’s impossible not to spare a thought for the 600 slaves that toiled on this plantation during Jefferson’s lifetime.

Which brings me to the man himself.

Jefferson, as I’m sure you’re aware, was the author of the Declaration of Independence and third president of the United States. The Declaration of Independence famously proclaims that “all men are created equal” and are endowed with unalienable rights, including “Life, Liberty and the pursuit of Happiness.”

Jefferson referred to slavery as ‘moral depravity’ and a ‘hideous blot’. Noble words indeed. Yet, he owned over 600 slaves during his lifetime.

Sally Hemings is worth a little mention. When Jefferson was in his mid-40s he took enslaved minor, 14-year-old Sally, as his mistress and over the years she went onto to have six children by him.

He freed two of his four surviving children during his lifetime and the other two in his Will. Never freed Sally.

So, a thoroughly decent chap, eh?

And, one might say, a typical politician.

Anyway, things to do. The next day we head to Front Royal, where we’ve booked the Bates Motel. Should have guessed when we pulled up that we weren’t going to like it. The rooms surrounded a shabby pool and were outside of Reception. Grim. No way could we stay here.

Julie, Queen of hospitality, informed the pleasant Receptionist and secured a full refund. We head back to the Ramada.

Next stop Washington!